AH-6J
MH-6
Prime(r)-time.
MH-6 with its typical benchs for the SOF guys to sit upon (crew is SHQ if I remember correctly, SOF guys are Caesar plastics - unsure if they will be added).
MH-6 side shot, note the new tail and the FLIR turret as well as the added GPS antenna.
MH-6 details: note the support struts on the bench (scratchbuilt) and the mounted (scratchbuilt) FRIES (=FastRope Insertion and Extraction System) over the rear doors.
MH-6 front.
The 160th Special Operations Aviation Regiment (Airborne) is a special operations unit of the United States Army that provides helicopter aviation support for general purpose forces and Special Operations Forces. Its missions have included attack, assault, and reconnaissance, and are usually conducted at night, at high speeds, low altitudes, and on short notice. The 160th SOAR is headquartered at Fort Campbell, Kentucky. The 160th SOAR (A) are also known as the Night Stalkers and their motto is "Night Stalkers Don't Quit".
AH-6j with M134 Miniguns (7,62mm) and M260 Hydra pods (2.75" FFAR) with seven shots each.
AH-6j side shots reveals details of the scratchbuilt weapons mount and the added details (new tail, FLIR, GPS antenna etc.)
Land Rover Snatch
Toyota Hi-Lux
BTR-50
Two of the infantry fighting vehicles so far (more to come). Offering space for 9 soldiers and being amphibious as well as armed with a 25mm autocannon and a co-axial 7,62mm MG it adds quite a punch to my Chinese forces. Infantry NCO shown for scale.
Front view: mirrors, wheels and some other details I took from Revell plastic kits. Note the smoke dischargers on the turret front which I added as well.
Back view: The rear lights are taken from a Revell kit, but the resin hull has some to offer as well. Note the tools which I added.
Left side: The decals are from the same sheet I used for the ZTZ99b tank and came off ebay HK.
Right side: more tools (Revell) and the towing equipment above. You can see how the powder of Tamiya's weatherin master set was used to "dust" the tires and wheel houes. Before I apply such powders or pigments I normally start drybrushing with brown tones first.
A top view: it reveals the engine grilles and nicely shows the smoke dischargers on the turret as well as its 25mm cannon and co-ax MG. Note the panel lines that were pinwashed with Devlin Mud (GW) - a lot of work that seems to take forever.
Weathering detail shot: You just can't paint the realisic look of actual powders and pigments when you want to achieve a dusty and dirty look. This shot also shows how I used Saddle Brown for rust marks and battlefield damages. Note the exhaust's weathering, solely done with various brown shades of colour.
Exhaust detail shot: sorry for the bad pic, but I guess you get an idea how different shades of brown, applied in a random pattern of dots and lines, will make the metal look like it has been turned hot many times and is now totally rusty. I haven't used matt varnish yet, that's why the dark green is semi-glossy in those pics! 
Assemble the kit and put it on your base (if you prefer to). Use Tamiya's Grey Basecoat primer spray and give it a full coat. Allow the primer to dry completely, then start painting the base with GW Bestial Brown. Drybrush the base with GW Vomit Brown afterwards and add a drybrushed layer of Vallejo's Iraqi Sand on top.
Time to apply the outlines of the camo pattern. I paint all areas that later will be green (no matter which shade of green) with Mr Hobby H303 Green. These colours do require some thin layers. Don't blotch huge amounts of it at once, rather go with more thin layers!
When the first green camo pattern has dried, use Mr Hobby H309 Green (which is slightly darker) and add those blotches of the pattern. At this time you could basicly also start painting the wheels with Tamiya NATO black and paint areas that will get a metal surface with GW Chaos Black, to make sure the metal tone looks alright.
Step #4 is by far the longest and takes a tremendous amount of time. First you will have to pinwash around all panel lines and recesses. Use GW Devlin Mud to do so. It will help to break the flat bright brown surfaces and add more realism to your model. Use the Badab Black wash to add dirt to the engine grilles on top of the vehicle.
The last step requires a lot of paints as we obviously need to paint up all details.
4.- Contact these bloggers and let them know about the award.
Will do. ^^
This shot gives you an idea of the impressive size of China's latest battle tank in ~1/72 scale, the infantry NCO is shown for scale.
Of course the turret spins. :-D
I cannibalised a Revell T-72 for drums, towing cables and the obligatory trunk of a tree. Note the texture on the log.
Front view revealing the additional armour plates of hull and turret frontside.
The small device with the laser warning label is part of an active protection system (APS). The laser-dazzler confuses enemy sights, optics and incoming warheads of ATGMs. The PLA badges and numbers are part of decal sheets I got off Chinese ebay for bargain.
The side view shows the subtle weathering. I was trying to add some mud and dust effects to the trackguards. Some chipping here and there gives it a well-used look.
Rear view. Towing cable and drums and better view of the trunk of a tree that is used to pull the tank out of mud if it got bogged down.
Other side with the commander's hatch and the QJC-88 heavy machine gun (pretty much the same like the Russian DShK).
The top of the tank shows the engine's grilles and the camo nets in the turret stowage bins.
Detailed shot of the turret. Note the optics and laser-dazzler device (APS). Some minor rust marks were painted on various armour panels.
Mud and dirt stains on the trackguards were painted on using a variety of brown colour tones. Paint chipping was done using saddle brown from Vallejo.
These shoulder launched QW-2 SAMs are the equivalent of the Russian IGLA or the US Stinger missiles. They are heat-seeking and a real threat to any aircraft or helicopter in low altitudes.
Bases are made from steel washers (30mm), some stones added and little bit of flock and foliage...
The Elhiem minis were converted. The Stinger missile had to be re-designed to bring it closer to the look of the S&S launcher the other miniatures are bearing. I like the fact that both miniatures are having different heights - like real humans, miniatures come in various sizes, too.
These S&S models of the PLA range are my forward artillery observer team or could act like a scout team for other purposes. The standing rifleman has a long-ranged QBU-88 rifle with a strong scope. The fuel drum and ammo boxes they hide behind are battlefield accessoires made by Italeri.
I used Tamiya weathering powder to add the rust to the fuel drum and dust to the ammo crates.
The HJ-8 "Red Arrow" is a SACLOS (semi-automatic command to line of sight) guided missile in use with the Chinese PLA. I used a modern French MILAN team from RH Liberation to build this little diorama of a tank-hunter team waiting in ambush position.
I wasn't sure about markings used on the launcher tubes, so I went with those that could be seen on vehicle based ATGMs of the PLA during the 2009 Parade in Beijing.
Both team members received QBZ-95 Assault Rifles made by S&S, which I added to the shoulder straps I made from Green Stuff. Basicly I only did this to make the obvious French-looking miniatures (they are based upon such) look more Chinese army like. 
QJC-88 heavy machine gun emplacement. Figures by RH Liberation, based upon an Iraqi DShK team. Sandbags are from Italeri's 1/72 battlefield accessoires.
The loader has received a shoulder strap made from Green Stuff putty and a S&S rifle (QBZ-95)
The team wears Type-87 woodland camo. I tried to paint little red rectangulars, they shall resemble small Chinese flags worn on the shoulders...
Note the assault rifle I added to the loaders' back. 